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Love it Chris!

Good video really interesting.

Excellent video. Thank you.

Can you also use an SST27SSF512?

Brilliant work from Rob and then yourself for putting this video together, helped immensely, fingers crossed the certificate comes through 🧡💛💚

the saturn version looks really good

action replay does the same job

Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/EZw9aRRFxq4/видео.html Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/9VjHCXwCXl8/видео.html Part 4 - ruclips.net/video/RexMNLwDIUg/видео.html Part 5 - ruclips.net/video/bdysbfbgj5o/видео.html

Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/EZw9aRRFxq4/видео.html Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/zJyxr27y3oA/видео.html Part 4 - ruclips.net/video/RexMNLwDIUg/видео.html Part 5 - ruclips.net/video/bdysbfbgj5o/видео.html

Love the problem solving process on display here

Fun video Chris, interesting to see the Peltier plates fail in the same way as my one, good detective work! Thanks for the mention and channel link 👍

Thank you for this. My everdrive started giving me this message today. So I already ordered my replacement battery. Should be able to replace it tomorrow

For some reason you remind me of Sean connery, how can that be... =)

(@ 46:50 or so) Better idea is to put a tiny drop of IPA on the top of the IC; if it gets hot enough, the IPA will boil off. A lot safer than sticking your finger on it, I think. 😅

Nice fix, Chris. 👍

What happens if you cross a Neo Geo with an Amiga 4000 with a 68040 accelerator? 🤔 Well, I don’t know what you would get, but imagine the games you could play on it!

You need a new of the MPEG chip as it might be bad.

Are they going to redesign the PIStorm to allow the input of the SPDIF signal into the PIStorm so that the SPDIF signal comes out inside the TV and on to the speakers or the TOSLINK on the TV.

Might be possible to make a flat flex cable rather then use a pcb due to the 100 pin density on that c1.

Hi ! Greetings from Brazil ! Great repair video ! I’m trying to repair a similar board that someone tried to repair before, so , the board im trying to fix is missing those two transistors next to the battery, can you tell me the model of them please? Thanks!

Loving the content as ever Chris, great to see you getting right down into it......how to drag solder, clean, probe & troubleshoot these important old boards from our early years!

sometimes your ramblings really make you sound like Alan partridge :) ,great content

Do you have any working MVS boards for sale mate?

Mate, you need a pair of eyeglasses. You're gonna further degrade your vision like that.

Parts board.

I have one problem one of the RCA output connectors on Marantz CD63MKII original SE is not sending the sound signal in the left speaker, when I move the cable's lug up the sound appears in the left speaker, when I released it the sound dissapears, please I need an advice how to repair this since I am not an electronist.

Thanks a lot! I used a 1.5 Volt Battery on my vileda Windowmatic and it fixed the problem! Great!

A bus conflict can be thought of as a tug-of-war. Imagine two guys, one dressed in a shirt that says, “NPN”, and the other has a shirt that says, “PNP”, and - between them - is a cable of copper wire. The two guys represent the transistors in the output stage of TTL chips tied to the bus wire (the copper cable.) The NPN guy can only pull the line low, whereas the PNP guy can only pull it high. When they fight for control of the bus, you get a near-dead short from ground to the +5 volt line. Then, either the trace of the circuit board will act as a fuse (the copper cable breaks), or one of the transistors will burn out (one of the guys lets go of the cable due to exhaustion.) Then the magic smoke comes out of an IC somewhere.

One of these boards just came up on eBay in Germany.

@28.39 echo NOBURST....the most recent plipbox 0.6 ver i think says BURST is the default, and should be enabled to allow faster transfer times. so - why NOBURST? did i misunderstand the docs file?

do you think its possible to use the 68k off these mvs and use it in a aes ? the aes cpus are hard to get cheers obviously a bit of work

If anybody is still searching in 2024 how to get the battery working. Try plugging and uplugging the DC jack until the orange light stays on it could take 15-20 times to get it to start charging

Thanks for continuing to save the retro hardware!

I love to see this old hardware back in action! Nicely Done!

Did you use a ESD safe vacuum? If not it can create static from the friction of the air traveling up the hose. Now saying that I did a long time ago vacuum a P4 system with a central vac and it survived so there is that.

Two downsides with the TF536 on my 500. First, no FPU. My old VXl30 had one, sadly enough the memory on the RAM32 board went bad so it became pretty much useless, but it had an FPY. Second, my GVP HD8+ doesn't work, at least not with kick 2.04.

Oh my god what an actual hoop jumping farce. I managed to also randomly find that post explaining how to get the letter, but it never even occurred to me that it was trying to check my name and address against my Adsense account's details. And when I went to check them my name was different and my address was 10 years out of date. And yet they were quite happy to pay me Adsense revenue previously with all this wonky data, providing they had a valid account to pay into. I'm now waiting for it to be rejected again for some other made up reason. It's not like this even requires specialist financial knowledge that you could pay an accountant to do for you. Regular RUclips viewers, this crap is why Patreon is a thing on channels. Their payment process is much simpler to navigate.

hi mate fancy taking a lok at my a2000

Nice repair and mod. Keep up the good job. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands